When you travel north from Madrid, you could just as a well book yourself a seat in a time machine. Here, within the shadows of the Cordillera peaks, you discover a Spain that progress has seemingly passed by. Ancient cities and towns date back to the times of Roman occupation and farming villages operate according to seasons rather than the clock.  This is Castilla, or the Castellan region, and there is no better place to experience Spain’s jamon (cured ham), rioja wines and romance than in this ‘Province of Castles’.  

Words and Photography Jacques Marais


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