Selcuk is the gateway to the great Roman ruins of Ephesus, one of the great capitals of the ancient world, and a cradle of civilization in the Mediterranean.

Women once ruled in this part of the world, from the Amazonians to Mary to the ancient cult of Artemis, the virgin goddess of fertility. Sadly only a single mighty column is left of the Temple of Artemis—one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. But coming across the ruins of the mighty city of Ephesus for the first time takes my breath away. It’s a must-see on any Turkish itinerary, and rivals the ancient ruins of Athens or Rome. Over 200 000 inhabitants lived in the first city in the world to have street lamps lit by olive oil—during its golden age under Alexander the Great. 

A word of advice. Unless you’re a student of the classics, joining a tour is essential. An old man at the entrance said it best, “The stones don’t talk. You need a guide to understand Ephesus.” Our guide explains how the great city was abandoned in the sixth century AD when the river silted up and was left buried for almost two thousand years until archaeologists began excavating Ephesus in the nineteenth century.

Ephesus, the great ruined Roman city