| Friday, 04 November 2011 | A Vaporetti Ride in Venice |
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The best way to get orientated for a novice in Venice is to join the tourist throng on the main thoroughfare from the Piazza San Marco to the Rialto, then walk along the strada nova (new street) in Cannaregio. Every day we explored one of the “sestieri”—the six island districts which make up this waterbound city—from Castello to Cannaregio, Santa Croce to San Polo, San Marco to Dorsoduro. A cluster of 118 islands linked by a maze of 170 canals, 400 bridges and waterways, Venice is an incredible feat of human endeavour—built centuries ago on marble foundation upon millions of wooden piles in the lagoon. The actual land area of Venice is only 7km2!
A few hot tips. At 80 euros (R800) for an hour’s ride—a gondola ride costs a pretty penny but if you share the fare with four, it works out more affordable. But the cheapest way to experience a short gondola ride is to take a traghetto—one of the gondolas which ferry people across the Grand Canal in the long gaps between the only three bridges. You can’t sit down so don’t fall in the canal! The No1 vaporetto (water bus), the fast “accelerato” is a good way to get around town for 6 euros (R60).
In the Cannaregio district, we found out that the term ghetto actually comes from an old Venetian word meaning foundry. In 1516 the city authorities allowed around 6000 Jewish refugees from Spain to settle on the old foundry island called Cannaregio—literally meaning canal royal—which became known as ghetto nuovo. Only 600 Jews who survived the holocaust live in Venice today. We took a tour conducted by the Museo Ebraico and visited some of the 16th century synagogues—as well as the holocaust shrine—and the old curfew gates to the ghetto.
TRAVEL TIPS  Tourists in traditional Venetian masks, Venice Getting there: We flew on Emirates who offer great fares from Cape Town or Johannesburg to Venice via Dubai. Watch out for good deals on budget airlines for a direct service from major European capitals into Venice—or catch a train or bus there. You can catch a water ferry right from the airport terminal to Piazza San Marco! Staying there: Accommodation ranges from youth hostels, guesthouses and backpackers to luxury hotels. Avoid places near the busy bus/rail station—and in the nearby towns of Marghera and Mestre. To avoid high prices, visit out of season - and fine pensions or rooms in districts like Castello or Cannaregio instead of San Marco. Eating there: Try pizzerias, the markets, delis and pancake stalls for good, affordable stand-up street eats.
Graham Howe is a freelance travel writer based in Cape Town who
specializes in gourmet tourism. He is wine and food editor of
Habitat—and a contributor to Business Day's Homefront, Eat Out,
www.iol.co.za and www.wine.co.za.
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The canals are one of the best and most affordable ways of getting around. We explored Venice on water and on foot—hopping onto vaporetti (water buses) along the main Grand Canal when we grew tired of walking. The magnificent baroque facades of all the palaces face the waterway so the water is the best way to see Venice It is a great city to get lost in and discover hidden sights off the tourist map. You could spend a week in Venice—and still run out of time to see all the wonderful palaces, museums, galleries, cathedrals, churches, markets, squares and gardens. 